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David's First Night in Belize
David is a Canadian who came down here to check us out, and I
invited him to the New Years Eve party we (the gringos) threw in Consejo
Shores: Here is his letter describing the event.
"First day in Belize – New Years
Eve
Upon announcing the date of my first visit
to Belize Sr. Ric was kind enough to extend an invitation to a New Years Party
being hosted out at Consejo shores. Consejo is a sort of
‘gringo’ enclave north of Corozal. Not being one to pass up a party
this resulted in a prompt change of plans. The regular Continental flight
arrived late around 3.00pm leaving two and a half hours to pickup a rental car,
find a map and navigate to Corozal from Belize City.
The previously arranged rental was a 91
Isuzu Rodeo. It was a five speed, full of “character” but reliable enough if
one didn’t worry about the dash trim falling off at every speed bump, the
check engine warning light showing intermittently and the drivers door locking
the driver variously in or out. The
good news was at least five cylinders were firing and the A/C was working, which
gave time to adjust from typical Canadian weather (34 deg. In Vancouver).
The drive up from Belize City was
otherwise uneventful. The Northern
Hwy is a conventional two way blacktop stretch minus speed signs, warning signs
or a centre line. At some villages there are speed bumps, which presently is the
only national form of speed control. These are cleverly designed to break
springs and shock absorbers, remove mufflers, tailpipes and other any
unnecessary automobile accessories, basically stuff you don’t really need on a
car anyway.
It turned out I didn’t need the map
either. You just leave the airport; turn left and two hours later arrive in
Corozal. About halfway, after
paying a 75c toll, you travel through the town of Orange Walk. Some would say
Orange Walk has “character” others less charitable would describe it as an
ugly little town.
After two hours driving I checked into the
Maya Hotel, then went looking for my Internet buddy Sr. Ric. He spotted me first
and we got to know each other a little whilst loading musical instruments and
sound gear into his venerable (i.e. aged and rusty) Scout.
I also got acquainted with Ric’s vastly better half Charlotte, who is
an absolute charmer, just simply a lovely gracious lady.
In the dark we convoyed to a small
community hall at Consejo where I was introduced briefly to two scorpions, then
proceeded to set up for a party. The
rest of the band arrived shortly followed by the locals after 7:30.
Both music and fun began and I met a number of expatriate residents,
snowbirds, locals and friends, a truly great bunch of people.
Not being a music connoisseur all I can say was it was great fun and the
music very good, good enough to entice me onto the dance floor a time or two. We
had a stirring solo by the “bad Czech”, Vladimir, a snowbird from Canada and
a first rate drummer. The wine was
flowing freely without any evidence of excess. It was a thoroughly wonderful
evening with the best of music, company and conversation and a superb way to
start a visit to an otherwise strange land.
Ric and Charlotte were great hosts as
well, taking time and effort to introduce their many friends. Wrapping up around
2am, Peggy, another charming expatriate was kind enough to convoy two other cars
back through the (unlit and sign-less) darkness to Corozal, where it was time to
get acquainted with my Hotel room.
One quickly learns in Belize you get what
you pay for. The $25US room was
clean but sparsely furnished, just sheets and a pillow on the bed. Mahogany
shutters and bug screens on the windows (i.e. no glass windows) and cold water
for a shower. At 02:25 shower completed, I discovered that half of Corozal was
still partying and the noise suppression value of mahogany shutters is zero.
Partying in Belize involves firecrackers. The noises died around 03:20
and I was just dozing off when at 03:40 a large truck hit the speed bump (or
pothole) on the adjacent highway about 50 feet from my zero noise suppression
window.
It takes about 20 minutes for the average
person to doze off. Being an average person I know this.
At 04:00 strange sounds of domestic disharmony permeated the air coming
from the next Hotel room about five feet away. Fearing domestic abuse in
progress I started to go into cop mode and approach the door.
Then, as my foggy senses cleared, I realised it was just my neighbour
doing something unmentionable to his girlfriend. This was evidently a very
painful experience for her, judging by the rhythmic nature of the moaning and
crying. Anyway nature took it’s course and in 20 minutes relative serenity and
peace returned.
At 04:40 there was a truck.
At 05:00
there were many dogs barking
At 05:20
there was a bus
At 05:40
there were many dogs barking
At 06:00 two maids came up to the third
floor balcony right outside my shuttered window and began sweeping and cleaning.
This practice apparently requires loud and repeated instructions in Spanish and
lasted for two hours. At this point
I discovered a flood coming under the room door and no water supply. I looked
out to see the maid squeegee copious quantities of water of the tiled balcony.
At 08:00 there was peace
At 08:20 there were many dogs barking
At 08:30: a tapping sound came from the
adjacent wall…still no water supply
At 08:45 loud (very loud) pounding and
hammering sounds came from the adjacent wall. This lasted intermittently until
10:30, still no water.
Apparently I slept from 10:30 to 12:00
because I staggered up at noon, found the water supply back on and took another
tepid shower.
At 12:30 the manager apologized for the
plumbing failure. She needn’t have worried because I was still in awe at her
ability to find a plumber at 08:30 on New Years day.
At 13:00 I visited Ric and Charlotte,
probably looking very hung over. They
were gracious hosts however and never said a word.
This was the first day.
Belize is an adventure! David
M. Greenhalgh
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